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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.